Gate Automation on the Central Coast

Start with the gate, not the motor

A motor amplifies whatever is already wrong with a gate. If it drags, sags or binds when you push it by hand, a motor will fight that every cycle and wear out early. Before talking about brands, an installer should check:

• Sliding gates: does it roll freely along its full length with one hand? Is the track straight, clean and firmly fixed? Are the guide rollers at the top in good order?
• Swing gates: does each leaf swing level without dropping at the latch end? Are the hinges tight? Is the post solid, or does it move when you push the gate?
• Frame: is there rust at the welds or the bottom rail, especially on older steel gates near the beach?

If the answer to any of these is no, the fix may be simple, such as new rollers or re-set hinges. Sometimes the honest answer is that the gate is not worth motorising.

Weight and length

Motor size depends on the gate's weight and length, and on how many times a day it will open. A light aluminium slider on a suburban driveway needs a very different motor from a heavy steel gate on a rural entrance. Installers on the Central Coast commonly fit brands such as BFT, Centurion, ATA, DACE, Nice, Merlin and FAAC, and most offer residential and heavier duty ranges.

Adding what a manual gate does not have

Motorising a gate is more than bolting on a motor. A proper conversion usually includes:

• A gear rack along a sliding gate, or mounting brackets on swing gate posts
• Limit switches or settings so the gate stops in the right place
• Photo-electric safety beams across the opening
• Obstruction sensing set so the gate stops or reverses if it meets resistance
• A manual release so the gate can be opened by hand in a power cut
• Remotes, and possibly a keypad or intercom

AS/NZS 60335.2.103 is the Australian safety standard for electric gate drives. A gate that was safe to push by hand can become dangerous when a motor is driving it, which is why the safety devices matter as much as the motor.

Power to the gate

Most residential gate motors run on low voltage from a transformer, but getting mains power to that transformer is electrical wiring work. In NSW that must be done by a licensed electrician. On a suburban block the run may be short. On a hinterland property, or where the house is a long way from the boundary, a solar kit with battery backup can avoid trenching altogether.

Older and heritage gates

Some older timber or wrought iron gates have real character. They can often be motorised with care, but timber moves with the weather and older hinges were never designed for a motor. An articulated arm motor sometimes suits a decorative gate better than a ram. Ask your installer how they will mount the motor without damaging the gate.

What to send when you enquire

A few photos help an installer give you a sensible answer faster:

• The whole gate, from the street side and the property side
• The hinges, or the track and rollers
• The nearest power point or meter box
• The driveway levels either side of the gate

Send your details and photos and we will pass them to a local installer.